This one's for Oly

[>>>---WW---->]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NHEbOqCy40 So as not to hi-jack your other thread, here is a pretty good video on how to sharpen just about any three blade broadhead, It is well worth anyones time to learn this process. And besides, there is a little bit of pride in knowing that you can do it. I'm sure many already know how to do this. But for those that may not, I hope this helps.

[olympushunt]

Thank you kind sir! I definitely am going to practice this. I have a bunch of blades I can practice with and if I screw them up no big deal....I have probably hundreds of replacement blades I've dulled over the years.
Very helpful thread!

[Swede]

Good video WW. I see a couple of things Steve does, that I have been remiss on doing, like cleaning his stone during use. I never went down to one stroke before turning. I usually went to three.
I suppose any broadhead can be sharpened ok at 33 1/3 degrees as shown in the video, but different metals are sharpened at different angles. Maybe some metals just cannot be adequately sharpened. I have at least 20 different sharpening stones, diamond steels, and other tools. Some are flat. Many have a preset angle including broadhead sharpening stones.
I have one knife that is sharpened at 17 degrees which is effectively 1/2 of what Steve sharpens his Snuffer. Other knives are sharpened at 21 or 24 degrees. Some metals (broadheads, I can just not get to sharpen to a razor edge. No how, now way. Maybe we need a thread on which broadheads can be sharpened to a razor edge as Steve in the video shows.

[Swede]

I had to check out this information on replaceable three blade broadheads a little while ago. Sorry folks it does not work in that application. The blades are recessed too far back to make contact with 80% of the blade. After working away on the broadhead for awhile, I had removed less than 1/3 of the Sharpie marking on the blades. Steve's video will only work if the blades go to the tip of the feral as with a Snuffer.

[olympushunt]

I think one of the whole points of having replacement blades it to not have to resharpen them. They may be thin, they may not be a good carbon steel for resharpening but since they only need to do the job once they are a good invention. Lots and lots of big game killed with them.

[Brendan]

I think one of the whole points of having replacement blades it to not have to resharpen them. They may be thin, they may not be a good carbon steel for resharpening but since they only need to do the job once they are a good invention. Lots and lots of big game killed with them.

This is my experience too. When I put a replaceable blade head through an animal - those blades are retired to practice or thrown out. Single use only (on animals). I will touch up the non-replaceable tip of a replaceable blade head on a stone depending on the design.

On the other hand - a head like a 3 blade VPA is very easy to sharpen... hard to mess up, actually...

[>>>---WW---->]

Swede is correct. This method is for cut on contact heads such as Snuffer, Montec, Woodsman and others of that type. Replaceable blade heads are just as the name implies. They are meant to be replaced. However, in some cases they can be resharpened. In some cases, they can be done on a KME or other similar device. But, if they have a shoulder on them that slides into the ferrel you might be just a well to toss them or use them a practice blades.