Best Big Game Broadhead

[TurkeyBowMaster]

Sharing info thread inspired me to start this thread about what is probably the best big game broadhead...the Simmons Land or Tree Shark, or possibly the Interceptor. All great heads off the Simmons line...superior penetration makes them great recurve or longbow heads. Takes a heavy arrow to make them fly great out of a speed bow, and sharpening them takes skill but when they are sharp and shoot straight there is nothing better. You heard it right hear...from the pro of the people.

[Kessler10]

Solid Broadheads

http://www.solid-broadheads.com/

[TurkeyBowMaster]

Having a good breakaway bleeder is mandatory. 2 blades alone just don't open a hole like when a bleeder is added. The concave edge doesn't glance off on angle shots. Concave also allows for the huge 1 9/16 main blade and keep good flight characteristics. Everybody ought to just try one once and you will likely never shoot anything else. Migration away from 100 and 125 heads and putting more wt up front is the trend and there is a reason for that.

[Kessler10]

Was not sure if you were talking about Solid Broadheads when talking about no bleeder???
Solid comes in a 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch bleeder.....your choice.

[TurkeyBowMaster]

I see the bleeder now. Looks like a great head and worth a look. What is the cutting width?

[BrentLaBere]

I see the bleeder now. Looks like a great head and worth a look. What is the cutting width?

Ill take a picture of my arrow setup and broadhead. 125 head w/ 3/4" bleeder (deep six model) backed by an easton deep six full metal jacket. Total weight of 494 gr. They are a large broadhead to say the least. Biggest ones ive shot thus far. I used to shoot the 100 grain 1/2" bleeders and upgraded when i switched arrows. They make more noise in flight, the one draw back I have against them. Oh, and they tend to absolutely destroy your target.

[Brendan]

I see the bleeder now. Looks like a great head and worth a look. What is the cutting width?

Ill take a picture of my arrow setup and broadhead. 125 head w/ 3/4" bleeder (deep six model) backed by an easton deep six full metal jacket. Total weight of 494 gr. They are a large broadhead to say the least. Biggest ones ive shot thus far. I used to shoot the 100 grain 1/2" bleeders and upgraded when i switched arrows. They make more noise in flight, the one draw back I have against them. Oh, and they tend to absolutely destroy your target.

I actually found they fly very well for me too. These are my top choice in fixed blades, but expensive. Blew one through a hog this past winter and never found it - the whole time I was thinking about how damn expensive that broadhead was

[Kessler10]

I see the bleeder now. Looks like a great head and worth a look. What is the cutting width?

Ill take a picture of my arrow setup and broadhead. 125 head w/ 3/4" bleeder (deep six model) backed by an easton deep six full metal jacket. Total weight of 494 gr. They are a large broadhead to say the least. Biggest ones ive shot thus far. I used to shoot the 100 grain 1/2" bleeders and upgraded when i switched arrows. They make more noise in flight, the one draw back I have against them. Oh, and they tend to absolutely destroy your target.

I actually found they fly very well for me too. These are my top choice in fixed blades, but expensive. Blew one through a hog this past winter and never found it - the whole time I was thinking about how damn expensive that broadhead was

Do you think the 1/2 bleeder and the 3/4 inch bleeder Solid broadhead will fly different? Reason I ask is the first 3 pack I bought was 1/2 bleeder (125 GR). I meant to get 3/4 inch. But I ended up just keeping the 1/2 inch, I am going to buy a backup 3 pack. Should I stick wit the ones I have which are 1/2 bleeder or grab the 3/4 inch??
Thanks!

[Ridge Ghost]

How do you sharpen the Simmons broadhead? I've taken a look at it, and it looks tricky with the blade not being straight.

[TurkeyBowMaster]

How do you sharpen the Simmons broadhead? I've taken a look at it, and it looks tricky with the blade not being straight.

Can't use flat sharpening tools for inside curve edges. I prefer good quality ceramic crock sticks. I can take the factory edge and get it sharp in just a few strokes. You just have to make sure the edge side of the blade is making contact with the ceramic. Some crock sticks haven a keener bevel and than the factory bevel and that can lead to frustration when sharpening. You can also use tools like the WorkSharp to create a keener bevel or sharpen really dull edges on the Simmons.

If you prefer a super sharp smooth cutting surface you can use sharpening compound on leather or cardboard to hone. I do this after sharpening on ceramic, but I am not sure the smooth edge is better than the edge created by ceramic. The micro serrated edges seem to grab flesh better than the smooth edge but the smooth is definitely sharper in terms of hair shaving.

Chris Spikes has a YouTube video using a tool to hold the Simmons and it obviously works for him.

[Brendan]

I see the bleeder now. Looks like a great head and worth a look. What is the cutting width?

Ill take a picture of my arrow setup and broadhead. 125 head w/ 3/4" bleeder (deep six model) backed by an easton deep six full metal jacket. Total weight of 494 gr. They are a large broadhead to say the least. Biggest ones ive shot thus far. I used to shoot the 100 grain 1/2" bleeders and upgraded when i switched arrows. They make more noise in flight, the one draw back I have against them. Oh, and they tend to absolutely destroy your target.

I actually found they fly very well for me too. These are my top choice in fixed blades, but expensive. Blew one through a hog this past winter and never found it - the whole time I was thinking about how damn expensive that broadhead was

Do you think the 1/2 bleeder and the 3/4 inch bleeder Solid broadhead will fly different? Reason I ask is the first 3 pack I bought was 1/2 bleeder (125 GR). I meant to get 3/4 inch. But I ended up just keeping the 1/2 inch, I am going to buy a backup 3 pack. Should I stick wit the ones I have which are 1/2 bleeder or grab the 3/4 inch??
Thanks!

Not sure how much it'd matter to be honest. Personally, I'd stick with what you have and buy a backup set so you have spares. I used one for practice, and kept 5 in my quiver.

[Kessler10]

I see the bleeder now. Looks like a great head and worth a look. What is the cutting width?

Ill take a picture of my arrow setup and broadhead. 125 head w/ 3/4" bleeder (deep six model) backed by an easton deep six full metal jacket. Total weight of 494 gr. They are a large broadhead to say the least. Biggest ones ive shot thus far. I used to shoot the 100 grain 1/2" bleeders and upgraded when i switched arrows. They make more noise in flight, the one draw back I have against them. Oh, and they tend to absolutely destroy your target.

I actually found they fly very well for me too. These are my top choice in fixed blades, but expensive. Blew one through a hog this past winter and never found it - the whole time I was thinking about how damn expensive that broadhead was

Do you think the 1/2 bleeder and the 3/4 inch bleeder Solid broadhead will fly different? Reason I ask is the first 3 pack I bought was 1/2 bleeder (125 GR). I meant to get 3/4 inch. But I ended up just keeping the 1/2 inch, I am going to buy a backup 3 pack. Should I stick wit the ones I have which are 1/2 bleeder or grab the 3/4 inch??
Thanks!

Not sure how much it'd matter to be honest. Personally, I'd stick with what you have and buy a backup set so you have spares. I used one for practice, and kept 5 in my quiver.

Thanks, $200 for my 6 broadheads, my wife is going to love this!

[TurkeyBowMaster]

$200 for 6 heads is probably a good idea for some hunters but you can get a dozen and a half Simmons for that and it's a bigger better design. It's amazing how long it has taken to realise that the big vent is not necessary. Scalloping out the blade is better! You are essentially putting the vent on the outside...this allows for more wt reduction without strength loss. This design also puts the heads wt closer to its axis, which in turn makes it easier to spin, making it a much better flying head than the old snuffers even though they have a larger cut.

BTW, the tiny Simmons bleeder is 7/8 inch...at least it looks tiny next to the main blade and the larger invented bleeder is 1.25".

[Kessler10]

$200 for 6 heads is probably a good idea for some hunters but you can get a dozen and a half Simmons for that and it's a bigger better design. It's amazing how long it has taken to realise that the big vent is not necessary. Scalloping out the blade is better! You are essentially putting the vent on the outside...this allows for more wt reduction without strength loss. This design also puts the heads wt closer to its axis, which in turn makes it easier to spin, making it a much better flying head than the old snuffers even though they have a larger cut.

BTW, the tiny Simmons bleeder is 7/8 inch...at least it looks tiny next to the main blade and the larger invented bleeder is 1.25".

saying its a better design is a matter of opinion........ (and bigger does not alwasy mean better, in my opinion)

I am no expert on archery equipment. It would be a stretch to even call myself a novice, I just go with what works for me and what makes me feel confident in my setup. Just unfortunate what i feel comfortable and confident at this current junction in my hunting life is so expensive, but ill pay extra if I find a broadhead or any piece of equipment that helps me feel comfortable and confident.

When it comes to broadheads in my opinion, it just a matter of you like and what you are confident with. What will solve everything is a well placed shot on your target, of course.
I would be hard pressed to say Solid Broadhead (my current BH of choice)is a better design than any of the other broadhead out there. I would literally have to shoot every broadhead and do years of research with every broadhead out there to make that claim. But if someone asks me what BH I use i will tell them, as I did in this thread. the only I can say for sure is my last broadhead I shot was not as durable as my new BH. So my sample size is only two different broadheads. I have no reason to switch right now unless I am just looking for something cheaper. I really do not look to much at price when it comes to my elk hunting gear and equipment, i buy what i feel will perform the best and what i am comfortable with. If those 2 criteria are met I will pay what the price tags says. Elk hunting gear is the only aspect in my life where I have this mindset on price. i am a cheap ass on basically everything else.

[TurkeyBowMaster]

I've killed around 600 animals with about 100 different makes and models of broadheads and the Simmons is the best I have shot in terms of doing everything that will be asked of a head.

[FlyingArrow_Support]

We have had great success with Toxics and Cyclones! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PzRTb5WwfaA

[the weasel]

well placed, SHARP, non-expandable will kill anything. just not sold on the mechanical style..(yet)

[Indian Summer]

I killed hundreds of animals with a particular head too. But they were rabbits, turkeys, deer and lions and so I don't really factor them into my choice of big game broadhead. You might get away with deer broadheads for caribou even. But the next step up the ladder, elk and moose are another story. Way heavier bone and hide and hair that are as impenetrable as an entire deer. And.... the other humongous factor is that those big big game animals have lots of blood and huge lungs so if you don't hit the boiler room there's a good chance you won't kill them and even if you do you might not find them. Those Simmons look fine to me. Glad you found a head that you are happy with. That said.... everyone is different and everyone shoots different bows and setups. Too many variables to be able to say any one piece of gear of any type is the best for everyone. Whatever flies well enough all summer to give you the confidence you need to keep the butterflies in your stomach calm and your hands from shaking at the moment of truth. That's the one to go with. Sincerely, Jack of all Trades, Master of Nothing, but Always Learning.

Kessler your last post was spot on and very well said!

[TurkeyBowMaster]

Actually, when seeking the best, personal opinions can not come into play, so I try not to factor in what I or anyone else thinks. It is strictly a performance based factual experiment. Based on this criteria, the Tom o Hawk is by far the best turkey head and the Simmons is best on deer and larger game. Only disclaimer is this is for 40 yards or less. Not sure what is best at longer distance. No disrespect for other heads or others opinions...just going by all the factors and facts and production of the head.

[Csrbowhunter]

I use steel force Saber tooth 125 gr. They fly good and can be sharpened as well. In 30 years of hunting I've went threw alot of bh and I always go back to steel force. Just my 2 cents

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk