Sharpening broadheads

by **Mikeha33** » 07 29, 2014 • [Post 1]

For those of you that sharpen our heads, is it imperative that you use a diamond stone? I shoot the G5 Montec's, and they need touched up. G5 makes a stone, but it's $30, and I think that's a rip off. What/how do you guys use stones or other tools?

by **WapitiTalk1** » 07 29, 2014 • [Post 2]

I just use an inexpensive Smith's BH sharpener. Works fine for touch ups.

: Smith's.jpg (7.61 KiB) Viewed 12542 times

by **ferris bugler** » 07 29, 2014 • [Post 3]

If you are already close to being sharp use some really fine grit wet sand paper to finish them off. 2000 grit type of stuff. Then strop off the hanger using a leather belt. You will be able to use the blades as a mirror once you are done.

by **ST52V** » 07 30, 2014 • [Post 4]

There is some good info on bowsite about this subject! I will see if I can find it. Use a black binder clip to hold the head, same number of strokes on each blade, sand paper , polishing compound, and a cereal box.

by **Navesgane** » 07 30, 2014 • [Post 5]

Are you all sharpening new/unused broad heads and just wanting a finer edge or wanting to sharpen ones that have shot an animal or target? I'm asking because I think my new out of the package muzzy heads could be sharper than what they are but am timid to try to make them sharper myself.

by **ST52V** » 07 30, 2014 • [Post 6]

http://www.broadheadtalk.com/general-br ... orial.html

Found what I was looking for !! Good info here guys!!!

by **Indian Summer** » 07 30, 2014 • [Post 7]

I use slick tricks so I don't sharpen. But if I was going to shren I'd buy a KME knife/broadhead sharpener. It's a few bucks but serves more than one purpose and is the best knife sharpener out there. Also the owner is an awesome dude and backs his product.

by **ElkNut1** » 07 30, 2014 • [Post 8]

Such heads as Snuffers, newer SnufferSS, Wensel Woodsmans, Montecs, Razorcaps & like heads all need attention before use!

I do not like any head straight out of the package, I sharpen all heads better than the way they come to us. I start by blacking out all 6 surfaces with a sharpie then I pull them from back to front over a 12" bastard file until all surfaces are shinning, you must get them shinning from back to tip completely. This step can take 5 minutes per head.

Once done, I use a med/fine Arkansas flat bench stone. I again pull the head from back to tip. I do all sides 15 times, that's per side before turning head, then 12 then 10 then 8 then 6 then 4 then 2 then 1. I then turn the stone over on the fine side & repeat. Once I'm done with those steps I then with the weight of the head only pull it along the fine side once per side another 20-30 times with little to no finger wt. Once I hit each side once that's considered 3 strokes. When you are done those bad boys are razor sharp!!! -15 min minutes per head is common! After this initial shaping & sharpening is done, it only takes a minute or so to put an edge back on if needed!

ElkNut1

by **stykbow67** » 07 30, 2014 • [Post 9]

What Elknut says= Scary sharp BH

Steve

by **pointysticks** » 07 30, 2014 • [Post 10]

i do the same thing as elknut.

flat file first. i use a big flat 12" file. go one direction..and do it evenly on all the blades. you will be STUNNED how sharp feeling they get with this one step.
then i go to my knife sharpening stones. he uses arkansas stones..i use japanese water stones. same thing.

i finish with a leather strop block. i'll be honest, they dont feel as sharp as a razor but it is because a razor has a narrower angle..you are limited by geometry on a 3 blade. 30 degrees or something. that is a pretty wide cutting angle. kitchen knives are 20 ish.

but they are sharp!!

by **Ern** » 07 31, 2014 • [Post 11]

For the last three posts, I'm not sure I follow. Do you leave the blades in the broadhead? If so, doesn't the tip prevent you from getting the whole blade to touch the file/stone? If you take the blades out, how do you keep a consistent angle? If you have any picture of the process could you post some please. Thanks.

by **ElkNut1** » 07 31, 2014 • [Post 12]

Dave, the broadheads mentioned are Cut On Contact broadheads, they are all one piece welded or constructed out of one piece of steel. They are not a fixed head where blades can be removed separately from the ferrule!

ElkNut1

by **pointysticks** » 07 31, 2014 • [Post 13]

Ern wrote:For the last three posts, I'm not sure I follow. Do you leave the blades in the broadhead? If so, doesn't the tip prevent you from getting the whole blade to touch the file/stone? If you take the blades out, how do you keep a consistent angle? If you have any picture of the process could you post some please. Thanks.

YouTube snuffer SS sharpening. That is exactly what I do.

by **Mikeha33** » 07 31, 2014 • [Post 14]

I got out the file and stones last night, and like Pointysticks and Paul mentioned, it was impressive how sharp they get just hitting them on the big file. They were probably sharp enough at that point, but I went ahead and hit them about 50 strokes total on each side, on the coarse side of a bench stone, then flipped it over and hit it 15 more times each side using little to no pressure on the fine side, and hot dog, they are S-H-A-R-P!!! Definitely reccomend using a sharpie to color your edges, as it really helped be find one blade that had a small burl in it before I hit it with the stone. I did color them in again after I was done with the file, then again after the coarse side. Mirror finish on those bad boys, as promised!!! I'll be keeping my file in my bow box from now on, and it and the stone will be Headin' Out West (shameless plug for Joe right there) with me.
Thanks for the help, and in the future, I am going to try the compound and strop, but for now, they're dangerous.

by **pointysticks** » 07 31, 2014 • [Post 15]

I bought those big fishing treble hook protectors to keep my broad heads from dulling out in storage.

by **elkaholic** » 08 03, 2014 • [Post 16]

Has anyone tried the "Bloody Buddy"
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/spot-ho ... pener.html

Looks like an interesting setup.

by **WYO_ELK** » 08 06, 2014 • [Post 17]

Can one of you guys post a picture of the flat file you speak of? I shoot Magnus stingers and right now I just an old lansky that my dad had laying around, but I would really like to learn how to sharpen my broad heads just using a stone. Thanks guys!

by **Mikeha33** » 08 07, 2014 • [Post 18]

WYO, here is the same type of file that I used.

: sandvik-bastard-file.jpg (9.91 KiB) Viewed 12328 times

It's a crosscut file, 12" long. I expect others would work, but I had this one, and it worked fantastically.