Hoyt Faktr 34 valley questions

[MidMoElkNut]

I have a new hoyt faktor 34 long draw and it's maxed out on drawlength(32").... anyway I would like to have more of a valley so I can relax my arms more instead of having to hold so much constantly otherwise it wants to go off.... is there anything I can do in order to get more of a valley? Thanks!!

[ctdad]

Are your cams synched? Hoyts valleys are very sensitive to synch. This means that the draw stops on each cam contact the cable at the same time

[ElkNut1]

Dave, pretty sure nothing is wrong with your bow, any hoyt I ever shot wants to JUMP out of your hands at full draw if you don't keep tight tension on it including from their best their carbon element! No cure that I know of other than get a different bow?

ElkNut1

[ctdad]

The new cams on the faktor have a little better valley than the rkt had. It isn't as forgiving as some but better than it used to be. Check the synch

[twinkieman]

The short valley is part of the design, Hoyt shooters wanted a short valley and Hoyt gave it to them. The only way I can think of changing it would be to change the cam setup to different cams. The design is made to shoot with back tension, so are you employing back muscles at full draw, or just your arms? I would have to agree with Elknut 1, either learn to shoot it with more back tension, or sorry to say, get a different bow that has a valley you fell more comfortable with. If you decide on a different bow, go to an archery shop that allows you to shoot different bows, you will find one feels better than all the others.

[luvelkhunt]

the z5 cam is a bit smoother than the rkt (less hump on the roll over). like ctdad said check to make sure the draw stops are hitting at the same time. the back wall will feel spongy if they are out of synch. also check that the top draw stop peg is in the hole that matches the mod letter on your cam mods. If it is set up right and fits you properly it shouldn't feel like it wants to jump anywhere. sweet bow by the way!

[ElkNut1]

Little story for you guys! We've owned (son & I) 6 different Hoyt bows, from the 80's to present day new ones. I knew the back wall was sensitive to relaxing ones draw arm a bit but just got used to it I guess! We sorta thought basically all bows were similar & they some what are in comparison to the ones we had pulled back in testing others. Then we picked up a couple Energy Elites & immediately noticed the smoother draw & back wall difference, we sorta said hmm! Didn't realize what a difference there was right off! Then the other day I was over my sons house to fling a few arrows with him out of our 3 week old Elites, he came out with his carbon element that he still had & said draw this back but use your release & not fingers, I looked at him kinda confused like there was a trick to it or something, I smiled & said OK what's up! (grin) He says nothing sorta grinning, just pull it back, it was set at 65# 28" draw. I went ahead & drew it back & immediately realized how much smoother the Elite was in comparison, but when I got it to full draw & anchored my muscle memory from the Elite must have been set in because before I knew it the element danged near jumped out of my hand, no kidding!! My son started laughing & I did too! I let it down & thought crap I had forgotten how jumpy those Hoyts were! He said he had done the same thing earlier & was amazed that it was the way it was but never thought about it much until he shot this Elite! (grin)

ElkNut1

[pointysticks]

Pretty much why I had to get rid of my Mathews Z7.

My elite just stays put. I can mess with the cam stops and increase or decrease let off. I like where it is now. Sometime it feels like it isn't even pulling on me and I will need to push it forward.

Only downside. My bow is pretty vanilla in terms of speed. I bet just a few ticks faster than my old Mathews switchback XT.

[a3dhunter]

Little story for you guys! We've owned (son & I) 6 different Hoyt bows, from the 80's to present day new ones. I knew the back wall was sensitive to relaxing ones draw arm a bit but just got used to it I guess! We sorta thought basically all bows were similar & they some what are in comparison to the ones we had pulled back in testing others. Then we picked up a couple Energy Elites & immediately noticed the smoother draw & back wall difference, we sorta said hmm! Didn't realize what a difference there was right off! Then the other day I was over my sons house to fling a few arrows with him out of our 3 week old Elites, he came out with his carbon element that he still had & said draw this back but use your release & not fingers, I looked at him kinda confused like there was a trick to it or something, I smiled & said OK what's up! (grin) He says nothing sorta grinning, just pull it back, it was set at 65# 28" draw. I went ahead & drew it back & immediately realized how much smoother the Elite was in comparison, but when I got it to full draw & anchored my muscle memory from the Elite must have been set in because before I knew it the element danged near jumped out of my hand, no kidding!! My son started laughing & I did too! I let it down & thought crap I had forgotten how jumpy those Hoyts were! He said he had done the same thing earlier & was amazed that it was the way it was but never thought about it much until he shot this Elite! (grin)

ElkNut1

Paul, I shot the Elite Energy 35 quite a bit and was going to get one, but one thing that bothered me was trying to let down from full draw without firing the arrow. There was no way I could do this quietly no matter how hard I tried. As soon as it broke over it wanted to jerk the bow out of your hand, I was also seeing let off on some of those elite's set around 85-90% instead of 80% as advertised.
I found with a bow that had a shorter valley I could control the let down and possibly have a chance for a shot a few seconds or a minute later in a hunting situation.
(I shot a PSE last year and now shoot a Prime Impact, which actually has a smoother pull than the Elite for me.)
This was something I encountered last year where I had a bull come in and I had already held for way too long. I was able to let down, then draw again 30 seconds later and get a shot after that.
While being able to hold full draw for a long time is great. I want to be able to let down if needed without spooking everything in the county.

[MidMoElkNut]

Thanks for the info guys!!!... I love my new hot and I'm shooting better with it than I ever have my Bear bows..... I don't shoot back tension buy I do use a Stan shootoff thumb release and really like it and try to use it with back tension.... I would love to be able and go out and shoot all the different bows. UT with a 32" draw I can't really test them since no one carry long draw bows... I did shoot an elite energy 35 at 29" draw and felt good but elite bows only go to 31" draw.... what I will probably do is just keep my hoyt, I'm sure I will get used to it and I really like it!!...

[twinkieman]

what I will probably do is just keep my hoyt, I'm sure I will get used to it and I really like it!!...

Nothing wrong with that, Hoyt makes great bows. Good luck, shoot straight

[ElkNut1]

Jason, I hear ya bud! At first I too had to get used to it, as you mention it's like you have to push it back to get it to withdraw. After a few times doing it now I find it pretty easy to let down, it took a bit but now I'm used to it. I definitely like both the draw & let down over my Hoyts, but that's just me! Use what works! (grin)

ElkNut1