Arrow Drop

[BrentLaBere]

Shooting my bow with broadheads and field points out to 40 yards seems to be a pretty good match. When I step out beyond that to say my 50 yard pin and shoot my broadheads, there is a significant drop. They are flying and grouping right, just dropping below my 50 yard mark. Does anyone else have this problem?
They are both 100 grain and I get the same results with 3 different types of BH.

[jmez]

How far are they dropping? Usually won't much difference until you start getting past 80 yards if the bow is tuned. If you are seeing a difference at fifty I would guess it is a tuning issue. Try raising your rest about 1/32-1/16 of an inch. Should bring them together at 50 and not change much closer.

[BrentLaBere]

Thanks for the tip. Ill have to give it a try.

[pointysticks]

Agree. Tiny movements. It won't take much.

[BrentLaBere]

Moving the rest did in fact put both types of broaheads in the dot, however, my field points now shoot 4-5 inches high....
Not sure whats going on.I went back through and shot my 45 on down to 20 pins and all were still on the 2 inch dot. So, like you said it didnt affect my other pins but I am starting to think my broadheads are just dropping off?

[pointysticks]

I once drove myself crazy chasing the same thing. I got lucky. I found that I was so anxious about it that I was subconsciously dropping my bow arm on the long shots to see my arrow fly and hit. The short shots got there fast enough to beat me.

Worth mentioning I think.

[BrentLaBere]

Good point. I will be giving it some serious practice. I hope I am on the right track and not causing bad follow through.
Hold my form and let the bow drop, trust the arrow is on its way. Broadheads have a way of showing more flaws in your form and set up.
Thanks for the pointers guys.

[twinkieman]

Good point. I will be giving it some serious practice. I hope I am on the right track and not causing bad follow through.
Hold my form and let the bow drop, trust the arrow is on its way. Broadheads have a way of showing more flaws in your form and set up.
Thanks for the pointers guys.

I think you are on the right track. Everything is exaggerated with a broadhead. While I'm not a huge fan of paper tuning, it will show you incorrect centershot, and form flaws, and might speed up the process for you.

[jmez]

Did you resight in after you moved the rest?

You should move the rest and then resight in your field points, then shoot the broadheads. The tiny rest movements will have a much larger effect on where the BH's hit as compared to the FP's. If you pin gap is set you should just need to gang adjust each time.

[BrentLaBere]

Did you resight in after you moved the rest?

You should move the rest and then resight in your field points, then shoot the broadheads. The tiny rest movements will have a much larger effect on where the BH's hit as compared to the FP's. If you pin gap is set you should just need to gang adjust each time.

No, I shot my field points and realized they were now shooting high (at the 50 yard mark we talked about). I shot my broadheads after to compare and they were shooting at the right elevation as the dot but still the same drop from the field points.
The only change I noticed for my pins was the 10 and 20 yard pin. I use my 20 for 10 yards. 10 yards is not shooting at the top of a 2" dot on my target instead of the center. Nothing major...
like pointysticks mentioned, it may be my own fault.....not the bows.
I am by no means the best bow mechanic so my description could be off as well. I just know they arent hitting the same spot (broadheads vs FP's). but both are grouping quite well.

[jmez]

Re sight in with the FP's and then shoot the BH's.

[8upbowhunter]

As stated above, sight in with your field points first then shoot broadheads and make very small rest adjustments to bring your broadheads to where the field points are grouping.

[BrentLaBere]

Field points were all sited in and thats why I started shooting my broadheads to check consistency between the two.
They were the same until I hit 50 yards. Thats where they started to drop. So i moved my rest up like it was suggested. Without moving my pins I was now shooting high for field points and right on for broadheads. I guess I dont see how it would help at all to adjust my pin for my field points now...... wouldnt that just make the broadheads hit the same spot-lower?
I just think there has to be some other issue I am not seeing. Or...its my bow arm like was discussed earlier.

[8upbowhunter]

Thats odd how is your arrow flight at 50 yards, good or wobbly? Are your arrows the correct spine? Does your arrows spin true with a broadhead attached?

[jmez]

You need to re sight in with the field points after you move the rest, then shoot broadheads. The adjustments you make will have a much larger effect on the BH flight than the FP flight so you need to move the sight. Re sight in with the FP and your BH's should be a lot closer, you may still have to move the rest more but you need to move your sight after every adjustment.

[8upbowhunter]

The way that I did mine was to sight in field points at 20 then adjust my rest for broad heads until they were grouping the same then repeat at 30, 40, 50 and so on.

[pointysticks]

Thats odd how is your arrow flight at 50 yards, good or wobbly? Are your arrows the correct spine? Does your arrows spin true with a broadhead attached?

That's why I think it is a form issue. If arrows are flying right short distances, they should be on the same flight path on the longer shots. They are not taking a turn down mid flight.

So it's either minor form probs or minor adjust at the rest. The rest would be minor. Really minor. Only because the longer shot magnified the off tune.

Good luck! I hate archery voodoo.

Oh. When I got my new bow. It came with five free coaching lessons. I've taken one. But it was awesome. He showed me that exaggerating the hold after the shot was the ticket. Aim, back tension release, keep trying to aim. It really helped me stop dropping my dumb bow arm. Focus. It feels odd and kinda retarded trying to freeze after the shot like that.

[luvelkhunt]

if you move your rest towards the way your fieldpoints are hitting in very small adjustments it should bring them together. it will affect the broadheads more than the fieldpoints thus bringing them together. shouldn't worry about resighting anything until they are impacting the same. of course like already said it could be that your follow through is lacking a slight bit.

[twinkieman]

Just out of curiosity, what broadhead?

[BrentLaBere]

7595 xt hunter gold tip arrow with 100 grain tips - 70 lb draw roughly and a 28-1/2" arrow.
Viper Trick & Solid Broadhead - Also have shot the G5 Montecs....

and I usually have mine tuned before I do any sort of sighting in. Sight all of my field points in and adjust accordingly after. This is the first time I have ever had a problem with this. I will take pictures or video this weekend when I go out to shoot. If I dont fix the problem that is. ..

[pointysticks]

I have the same arrow specs as you! I hid a lot of sins by moving up to a 0.300" spine. I use my 7595 arrows mostly for close range mechanical broad head shots at turkey. Or judo tip them. Mine hit low and to the right a smidge with fixed heads.

[twinkieman]

7595 xt hunter gold tip arrow with 100 grain tips - 70 lb draw roughly and a 28-1/2" arrow.
Viper Trick & Solid Broadhead - Also have shot the G5 Montecs....

and I usually have mine tuned before I do any sort of sighting in. Sight all of my field points in and adjust accordingly after. This is the first time I have ever
had a problem with this. I will take pictures or video this weekend when I go out to shoot. If I dont fix the problem that is. ..

I don't believe that your arrows are under spined, still sounds like either a tuning issue, or a form issue to me. If it is an arrow issue it would be easy to take a full turn off of each limb and shoot. If they fly correctly at a lower poundage, it is an arrow issue. I am assuming you are shooting a fall away rest, and a release aid. Cam timing, tiller, incorrect centershot would all be areas I would target first.

[a3dhunter]

As weird as it is, I've had bows that tuned 20-40 yards with broadheads and past that the broadheads dropped more than field points, and I've had bows that tuned 20-60 yards f.p. and B.h.'s hitting the same.
By far I've found that at a certain point with each bow the increased drag of the broadhead comes into play and the broadheads will hit lower than f.p. at the longer distances.

As you move the rest up a little at a time, recheck your 20 yard impact points. At some point the gap will start widening instead of closing. Right before that is the optimum tuning point for that bow/arrow/b.h combination. It will give you the best overall point of impact for broadheads and field points out to a certain yardage. It may be 40 yards, it may be 60 yards.
I will also say for anybody I have shot with that claimed same point of impact from 20-80 yards with fixed blade heads and field points, they were not a good enough shooter to tell the difference at the longer ranges. I'm not implying anything about anybody on here, just my personal experience.
I will add that I switched to Trophy Taker Shuttle T heads because they dropped less at longer distances than other heads. Standard drop with my last bow at 80 yards was 6" below f.p.'s, but was only 3-4" with shuttle t's. Thus I had tighter pin gaps with broadheads using those heads.

The heads I've used:
Wasp
Nap thunderhead
Slick trick standard
Slick trick mags
G5 Striker
G5 montecs
Muzzy 3 blade
VPA 125 gr
Terminal T
Shuttle T

There are some heads I've forgotten at the moment, and will be trying the Viper tricks as well.
To each their own, what works for one person may not work for the next.

One thing to watch on form is the position of your wrist on your release hand, and whether it is straight or at an angle when you pull through the release. This can affect the "kick and/or torque" of the bow at the shot.