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Wood Recurve + Aluminum Shafts?

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Wood Recurve + Aluminum Shafts?

Postby Elkduds » 11 08, 2013 •  [Post 1]

I am shooting aluminum arrows/feathers off the shelf of my 44# recurve. The arrows are chipping splinters off the outside edge of the shelf, which is not good, and sticking splinters in my left (bow) hand, also less than ideal. Current Band-Aid solution is electrical tape over the splintering area. What's the deal, and is there a better solution?
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Re: Wood Recurve + Aluminum Shafts?

Postby ORelksniper » 11 08, 2013 •  [Post 2]

Elkduds, do you have an arrow rest glued to the shelf and an arrow plate on the sight window?
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Re: Wood Recurve + Aluminum Shafts?

Postby G Posik » 11 09, 2013 •  [Post 3]

Are the shafts properly spines? Do you have something on the shelf? I use the fuzzy side of Velcro. Are your arrows long enough?

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Re: Wood Recurve + Aluminum Shafts?

Postby ORelksniper » 11 09, 2013 •  [Post 4]

Elkduds, when I said arrow rest on shelf I was referring to a pad of some sort. Many types available to purchase or you can make you own. Either way, if you're gonna shoot off the shelf it's a must have, in my opinion.

Also, like Glenn mentioned, incorrect arrow spine will cause problems (fish tailing) and incorrect nock position will usually cause porpoising.
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Re: Wood Recurve + Aluminum Shafts?

Postby Elkduds » 11 09, 2013 •  [Post 5]

Bow has Velcro fuzz on the arrow rest shelf and a plastic plate on the riser where the arrow passes. The splintering is actually right below the shelf, on the vertical face that meets the shelf, if that makes sense, where the feathers pass below the shaft. Arrows are generally correct spine for thedraw weight. And thanks for helping!
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Re: Wood Recurve + Aluminum Shafts?

Postby ORelksniper » 11 09, 2013 •  [Post 6]

How do the arrows fly? Do they all enter the target at the same angle? What is the brace height? Too low of a brace height and the arrow stays on the string too long causing flight issues and arm slap (string). Too high brace height = loss of arrow velocity and much harder to draw. What is nocking point height in relation to level? Start at 1/2" above level and adjust down depending on arrow flight? Find the sweet spot with brace and nocking point.

Don't mean to insult your intelligence if you already know this stuff. Just spewing some thoughts.

Good luck and enjoy the process.
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Re: Wood Recurve + Aluminum Shafts?

Postby Elkduds » 11 09, 2013 •  [Post 7]

Arrows are flying straight. Shelf is pretty narrow on this bow. Nock height is nearly dead level. Wonder what would happen if I nocked arrow above nock?
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Re: Wood Recurve + Aluminum Shafts?

Postby >>>---WW----> » 11 11, 2013 •  [Post 8]

How do you shoot? Fingers? Three fingers under? Two under, one above??????

For three under, I used to have my arrow nocked 3/4 of an inch hi. For two under I would go about 1/4 inch hi. Never level for a finger shooter.

Also, I am old school. Well, just plain old I suppose! But some of the old traditional sayings still remain in my mind. One of the important ones was. It is hard to over spine an arrow. But easy to under spine.

So try raising your nock point and try a heavier arrow and see what happens.
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Re: Wood Recurve + Aluminum Shafts?

Postby cnelk » 11 11, 2013 •  [Post 9]

I nock above level too.

What is your brace height?
You may have to increase it so when the arrow leaves the string prior to the feathers hitting the rest?
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Re: Wood Recurve + Aluminum Shafts?

Postby Elkduds » 11 12, 2013 •  [Post 10]

Fingers: 2 under, 1 above. Bow is recurve, feathers do not touch rest when bow is undrawn. When I shoot next, I'm gonna try nocking above the nock point, that should raise the nock point 1/2" above level. Appreciate the thoughtful replies!
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Re: Wood Recurve + Aluminum Shafts?

Postby Broken arrow » 11 12, 2013 •  [Post 11]

Nocking point is to low. Brace normally should be between 7 1/4 to 8 1/4" on a recurve. Also are the nock ends swedged or glue in? Might check for burrs on the glue in nock inserts. Or just switch to wood :)
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