broadheads & Blood trail

[Fridaythe13th]

I shoot Montec G5 not very happy with the way they fly out of my new bow. They shoot 9" low at 30 yds. So I called Montec they said my bow was out of tune and should adjust. So I took it back to the dealer, paper shot it and check everything over and all was good. What does everybody shoot for broadhead and do they leave a good blood trail. The only reason I'm asking is, I was told elk don't leave much of a blood trail.

[fm]

I shoot the g5 strikers. They fly like feed tips for me. Was shooting thunderheads but they did not shoot good out of my bow I bought a few years ago. Some times some heads just don't shoot good out of some set ups.

As far as elk don't bleed good that could go in the worst advice you ever got thread They are just like any animal that you shoot, make a good shot and they do bleed . The cow I shot this year bled so much out both sides that you could not follow her with getting blood all over your cloths.

[Swede]

Friday: Forget the paper tune. Mark your rest so you can always go back to where you started, then move your rest to cause the broad heads to get closer to where your field points are hitting. In your case you need to raise your rest a little at a time until the field points and broad heads hit at the same place. You can get the broad heads to hit right where the field points do if there are no problems with the arrows. You will find that your arrows fly just fine when all of your arrows hit the same location. My 2 cents.

[Jaquomo]

Quite a few of the elk I've killed left very little blood trail because the entry wound is through the bunched muscle of the front leg and the broadhead lodges in the offside shoulder muscle or ribcage. But with that shot, no blood trail is necessary. All the blood is inside and they usually fall in sight or within earshot.

g5 Montecs are fine heads. No need to look elsewhere, as you'll likely have the same issues. +1 Swede's advice

[bnsafe]

I had a bad blood trail with my slick tricks. but it wasn't the broadhead that was the problem. any of the name brand sharp broadheads will work. sometimes the animal just wont cooperate.
as far as tuning I hear ya, I have a terrible time tuning my bow

[BarW]

Tuning your rest will fix your problem, but some broad heads fly better than others. Slick tricks and shuttle T's are good about needing very little tuning.

[otcWill]

Make sure to sharpen them meticulously! They are not "good to go" out of the package

[timberland]

Paper tune does not guarantee "tuned to you". Swede is on the money for tuning your broadheads. Be aware that you can and will bend aluminum broadheads and ruin them when you practice with them and they will never be accurate again. Broadheads with a steel body like slick trick, montec and trufire T1 can be shot over and over and I haven't seen any bending of the broadhead. A good indication that the bow needs tuning is grouping 3 broadheads different than your field tips, meaning all three are in a tight group but low, etc. If you have one arrow low, one right, and one left, then it's likely the broadhead/arrow combination. I bring up arrow because shooting the wrong spine will look like erratic broadhead flight. Remember broadheads will exaggerate any problem with tuning and FORM. Start by moving the rest up SLOWLY, 1/16" at a time.

[Bowhunter]

I shoot montecs and did shoot thunderheads for years. They both shoot the same as my field points out of my setup. I like the ease of sharpening the montecs.

[Mikeha33]

I switched to the G5's a while back, because I was getting more erratic broadhead flight outside of 40 yds with my Muzzy's, and have noticed a great improvement. It might be in my head (kinda like new Nike's make you run faster!) but I do like them, and they fly very similar to my field points. The ease of sharpening them is a huge plus also. While I havent shot an elk with one, I have shot several whitetails and coyotes with them, and have passed through every animal I've hit, always leaving a good blood trail. Keeping them sharp is paramount though. You dont want to try to push a dull BH through an animal. Keeping them sharp makes sure that you cut everything in contact, rather than pushing an artery, capillary, or valve to the side.

[ElkNut1]

Yes, you need to tune your setup as mentioned. You most likely will have a 20-30-40-50 & possibly a 60yd pi setup. Adjust them once fairly well tuned to hit where the pins are set at that specific distance.

1+ on what OTCwill says, make sure you have those Montecs razor sharp by hand sharpening before they go back into your quiver for hunting. If you need help or instruction on "How To" just ask us. Thanks!

ElkNut1

[Fridaythe13th]

Thank you. I have a QAD drop away rest there is one screw to the bow and one other one I don't know what it does. Do I: A. add mole skin to the Y in the rest to bring it up or B. Drop my nocking point.

[BarW]

You should be able to move your rest up in small increments.
For reference what is your setup?
Draw weight, draw length, arrow length and weight, arrow spine, broad head weight?

[Fridaythe13th]

I shoot 68 pounds draw is 29" carbon express hunters350, that are 30 1/2" 100 grain montec. Does it matter if you line up the blades to the fletching?

[>>>---WW---->]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dm_mBH9lhRw

Swede and OTC Will were right on the money. Here is a visual aid to what they have already explained.

Also, I might add that paper tuning is only a starting point and personally, I avoid even messing with a paper tune. All arrows will shoot a perfect hole thru paper. It's jus a matter of how far away the paper is from the bow when you shoot.

As for the Montecs, they are a good head. I tried them out once and they flew great when properly tuned. The only problem I found was that the cutting edge wasn't perfectly true. When I tried to sharpen them, there was always a spot on each one that wouldn't lay flat with the stone. But with some extra sharpening, I was always able to eventually true the edge up on them.

If you are still having problems, be sure you are NOT shooting an underspined arrow for your setup. Shoot the spine recommended by the manufacturer of the arrow. And even if you are anywhere close to edge, go with the next heavier spine on their chart. It is so easy to underspine but you can get by with an overspined arrow usually without seeing a difference.

These are things that work for me and my field tips and broadheads always hit the same.

[TetonStorm]

Here's a link for tuning your setup. Have fun with it. You will also get to know your setup intimately and be more confident in you shooting. Everyone's advice above is right on. Enjoy!
http://www.thearcher.com/depot/resource ... gguide.pdf

[timberland]

The smaller set screw on the side of the rest is a jam screw. It keeps the rest from turning on the bolt. Loosen this screw up first the try tapping the rest down without loosening the bolt. As soon as you crack the bolt the rest will probably fall way down. You should mark a reference before you loosen anything up. You must tighten the bolt securely then the set screw. If you watch the rest you might see the set screw push the rest sideways a bit as you tighten it. Also make sure the rest comes up to the right position or else it won't drop away properly. The timing marks should line up. If they don't you will have to shorten your timing cord.

[Toby]

In addition to tuning your bow, you should also tune your arrows, or at least make sure that; 1. There is good vane clearance through your arrow rest,
2. That the spine and arrow length are right for your draw weight and draw length, remember the longer an arrow is in any given spine the weaker it actually acts coming out of your bow, 3. Your arrows should spin without wobbling, get an arrow spinner or just put the shaft on the handles of two coffee mugs and spin it, watch the tip for wobble.


Most any brand of modern Broadheads should fly straight out of a tuned outfit. And tuned bow/arrow combo's give better accuracy and increase penetration. There is lots of free information available on bow tuning. You can tune your bow, it's not that hard, and you will love the results. If you have questions, you can ask here.

Good luck
Toby

[BarW]

Texasbowhunter.com has a wealth of knowledge in its forum section.

[welka]

With that draw length, you may not have enough spine. I have a 30" draw and tried all the advice listed (Swede is spot on for most cases of tuning), but could not get my BHs to hit where the field points hit. I did the calculations on the CE website and even tried other arrow manufacturer websites. I eventually called the CE engineers and talked with them about my set up. I was on the edge of a 350 vs 450 and they said when on the edge always go higher spine. Worked perfectly. The arrows also absorb more of the energy and the penetration improved. Good luck with all the tuning, but it may be time well spent to call them as it sounds like you are on the edge. Good luck.

[Csrbowhunter]

I shoot steal force saber tooth 125gr. They fly great and blow threw the animals pretty easy but that's only if your bow is tuned correctly. I never paper tune my bow! I have to just keep tweeking it till field tips and broad heads hit the same.

[Toby]

.300 spine might actually work better.

Also, I forgot to mention, you need to tune you. Work on your form.

[Willie makit]

Make sure you have the correct fork installed for your MFG bow. The guys at my local shop said they never had problems with the stock fork but after shooting my bow daily it became an issue. The QAD comes with two forks, any bow I use from here out Ill use the tallest fork just for added clearance if at all possible.


viewtopic.php?f=14&t=3472

[wapitibowman]

Everyone holds and releases differently, so you can expect some difference. I always do a walk back tune with my broadheads.

Aim at ONE spot during the walk back tune. You will shoot ONE arrow at each distance: 20, 30, 40 yards. Use your 20 yard pin at all 3 distances. If your arrows are in a perfect line from top to bottom, you are set. Adjust your sight until you are hitting the spot you are aiming at and it is done.

If your arrows angle to the left, move your rest a tiny bit to the right, and re-shoot. Do the opposite if they are angled to the right. Keep doing this until you get a perfect vertical line at all distances (with broadheads).

I believe by forcing the broadhead to impact at the same spot as the field point you are making the broadhead act "unnaturally". Make the appropriate adjustments so the broadhead flies where it wants to go from the way YOU shoot it. BTW - smaller BH's will fly closer to your field points, bigger BH's will plane more.

Wapitibowman

[JCS]

One other thing you may want to do is mark your arrows to find out which ones are fling the best with the way you have your setup

[ishy]

On the subject of blood trails...we all shoot two blade stingers. Unless you hit the shoulder you will usually get a pass through, if you hit the opposite shoulder blade you will usually still have two holes to bleed from =more blood.