Trees and Elk Q&A

by **WapitiTalk1** » 02 12, 2014 • [Post 1]

How about a round of tree stand hunting for elk questions? There are a few cats here that have a bit of knowledge on this topic, including a published author of a book that really gets into the nuts and bolts of successful tree stand hunting for these big galoots.

I'll start with one I've been wondering about. What is the best way to stop a moving elk for a shot when in a stand? Does one use a popping grunt after coming to full draw, or are there other methods to consider that obtain the same results? I'm pretty sure they all don't stop on their own for a photo OP as they move under the stand site

by **BarW** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 2]

For the tree stand hunters, more success at a hot wallow or a trail? Do you utilize trail cams to help determine a good stand location?

by **cnelk** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 3]

My best tree stand is not over a wallow or trail.
I have found an 'elk passage'.
The elk are there in the mornings and evenings.
It has to be hunted soft, just slip in, hunt, make a few calls and slip out.

by **ElkNut1** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 4]

Rory, the Popping/Nervous Grunt would be # 1 on my list of goto sounds to stop any elk in its tracks for the shot. The reason I choose this sound is because it asks an "action" of other elk, it's asking for a visual or identification where a cow sound does not ask anything, it merely says there's an elk nearby. When one has a small opening or window for a shot opportunity & you must stop an elk in that window for the shot the Popping/Nervous Grunt is second to none! I used to use a cow sound to stop elk for the shot & sometimes it was effective & on other occasions the elk would still take a few steps before stopping. In thicker cover it can take their vitals out of the picture presenting us with no shot, once the sound is made & no shot is presented you now are in a bit of a dilemma as the elk now has you pinned down with no shot! The nice thing too is you can make this sound with your voice or a simple mouth reed without the use of a bugle!

ElkNut1

by **Jaquomo** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 5]

The popping voice grunt always works for me, for bulls and cows. Something I've done with success on treestands overloooking trails/crossings/"passages" like cnelk mentions is to put some elk scent on a tree at nose height where the vitals will be stopped in a shooting lane. I put it on a tree so that the elk turns its head away from my treestand and drawing motion. I've killed a couple by doing that.

Another trick I've used before with "passages" is to actually build a soft funnel into my shooting lane by using fallen logs (even sometimes cutting dead trees) to make something like a narrowing chute like we use for calf sorting and branding. The elk get used to taking the path of least resistance and will learn to travel right down the corridor. I've made these things as long as 70-80 yards from my stand or blind, especially where trails split. Only takes them a couple days to adjust, as they'd rather follow the path than start jumping chest-high "deadfalls'.

We've even made our own "trails" through deadfall timber in the summer. An hour with a couple guys with a chainsaw can make a wonderful elk trail that they'll quickly find and use for years until more deadfall clogs it.

by **ishy** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 6]

One I have been wondering about after this fall. Do elk tend to circle much to come in down wind for a wallow and watering source? My stand this year was below a wallow. Wallow is 125 yards off a ridge with several trails coming in above my stand, and one lesser trail below. Just over the ridge is a feeding area. With the heavier trails above the stand I thought I would be ok mornig and evening with animals coming in from the feeding area. I was careful about approxing and worked extra hard coming in the craziest way possible to stay off elk trails. Pics from the past years have herds morning and evening, and lone bulls sneaking in all day. Very slow year compared to previous years, and nothing when I was on stand. Am I killing the area hunting for multiple days at a time or is was this just an off year? If elk circled and winded me I never herd anything and would guess they would have to have gone 100+ yards downwind for me not to hear or see anything.

by **WapitiTalk1** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 7]

How do you folks normally use your tree stands in relation to the period (time frame) you hunt? All day..every day, just mid day when you're not cruising for active/vocal elk, only mid afternoon through nightfall, every other day, only after seeing sign/activity in the area of your stand?

I hope I'm not the only one that's gonnna ask questions on this thread. You might get the impression I've never tree stand hunted before

(this will be my first year deploying the death from above method as part of my elk tool bag)...

by **Swede** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 8]

Barw: Yes I use trail cameras. They tell me a lot more than I can see by jus looking at sign. I know what is coming around, when , & how often.
RJ: I have never called from my tree stand to stop an elk. I am not opposed, I just have never needed to.

It is interesting to consider some of the differences in technique, experienced tree stand hunters have. I know we are not all alike, which is good. Each of us has found success doing what we do. Paul uses a popping grunt to stop elk. I have never had a need to. Jacuomo is building funnels, I am not. Brad is calling from his stand, while I stay quiet,. When all is said and done, each of us get elk.
I don't know if it is possible, but I would some day like to see some of their successful stands, and hear what they say about how and why they chose that location including the tree, how good it is, etc. I think a discussion on that could be enlightening and helpful for people on this forum. Maybe some of these guys would like to see some of my stands and discuss them.
I still remember the fellow I felt sorry for, because he never got an elk anywhere he set up a tree stand. I gave him directions to my BEST stand location. No kidding, later he told me it was the dumbest place for a stand he ever saw. I overheard him telling a patron in his store, that I was the luckiest hunter in the world. I could set up in the supermarket parking lot and kill elk. I did not say a thing, but I never offered another tree stand location for him either.

by **Swede** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 9]

ishy: I have had elk come in from all directions. Elk can't always walk with their nose into the wind. They are going somewhere for a reason. Often this travel is from a bedding area to a water hole. I am waiting at a place they need to, or want to come to. I think you are making a mistake the way you are approaching your stand. I hike right down the trail they use and go straight to my stand. I will approach it from a direction that causes my scent to cover the least area. I may get busted once in awhile, but I minimize scent pollution of the area around my stand. I have had elk come down the same path I followed only minutes before. I also minimize my scent by being a clean as possible. I don't think I have won over every critique with my argument, but I compare scent to sound. Just as I would not yell in my hunting area, because I could be heard farther away, I keep my scent to an absolute minimum. I don't think it stays in the area as long and isn't picked up as far away as a strong odor. Elk move around a lot. They are not like Whitetail deer. You can hunt a tree stand day after day if you like. Day five or ten is just as good as any other.
RJ. Hunt your stand as long and often as you like. I hunt morning, afternoon , and evenings. I get most (about 75%) of my elk late afternoon and evening. My recommendation for people that like to run and gun, but also want a break, would be to run in the AM, well away from your tree stand location, and sit in your stand in the PM.

by **cnelk** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 10]

Below is a pic of a tree we selected just last year. It is in the same vicinity as another one I have.
They are 160 yards apart.

The terrain is flat. The elk like to 'pass thru' the area. There is no trail or wallow
The reason I believe calling works here is there is a draw nearby that has water and heavy timber on the slopes and Im between a feeding area.
The wind can be shifty since its flat, but fairly predictable.
We typically sit in these 2 stands in the evening. The reason is we chase bugles and cold call in the mornings.
This is a good way to rest, enjoy the hunt and still shoot elk.

I too have noticed that elk will travel around deadfalls near the stands like Lou mentioned, and I have positioned the stands accordingly.

by **stringunner** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 11]

Swede knows his stuff for sure when it comes to tree stand hunting, I have learned a great deal from him and in the past two years my dad and I have been 3 for 4 (combined) on elk from a stand. Here are some observations quickly while I'm on a brake at work...

1) use trail cameras, these give my dad and I the confidence to sit. I never thought I could sit all day in a stand as I enjoy running and gunning. But when I have photos of bulls everyday on my cameras for the two weeks prior to opening day, I can easily sit tight knowing my chances of at least seeing elk are going to be good. Plus running and gunning in 85+ heat isn't fun.

2) identify multiple locations. Not to say you have to have multiple tree stands up, but be scouting multiple locations to increase your odds. This year I hope to have 10 cameras (if I can find enough spots :-)

) out by the end of July. Then I will go up 3-4 days before season opens, check the cameras and hang a couple stands in the places I feel give the best opportunity. I have put some cameras out thinking "this is going to be a dandy spot" only to find after 3-4 weeks that it never took a picture of an elk or very few. Also along these lines, I know of a few spots that don't get active until half way through the season (based on how the elk are impacted by other hunters and where they move to when they start to group up). And as Swede and I ran into this year, there may be other hunters finding your locations and hunting them, thus having multiple locations is important.

3. set your stand in a location in a tree where you are going to be in the shade during the warmest part of the day! This one we learned real quick. When its 85-90 degrees out and your plumb stuck in a tree in direct sun light, aside from being more "open" to being spotted by passing game, it gets REAL hot and miserable.

4. Read Swede's book.

by **Swede** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 12]

Brad: You and Lou know your stuff. Stringunner has figured things out very well also. I said I have never built funnels, but I have opened up blocked passages so elk will come through instead of going around. In some ways they are like anyone else. They will go the easiest route when traveling if possible. That is good information for both the tree stand hunter, and the run and gun hunter, that is calling one in. Don't expect the elk to climb over slash to get to you.
Stringunner: It sure doesn't take long to learn to set your stand in the shade for hot afternoons do it?

by **WapitiTalk1** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 13]

Sweet! Great information guys.

Cnelk, you mentioned two stands in your post. Are those stands in close proximety to each other? Here's my next newb tree stand hunter question. Is it common for you folks to have more than one tree stand in an area (two hunterss hunting two stands)?

by **cnelk** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 14]

RJ
Those 2 stands are 160yds apart.
This year I may move the one in the second pic closer to the big pine stand.
Reason?
We are seeing elk travel thru just out of range - 60+ yds.
By placing another stand at that distance, 2 people can cover over 100yds of terrain, instead of having elk slip between 2 hunters.

Also,
I will adding another 3rd stand 200 yards away, as this one will specifically be a stealth stand and no calling.
All 3 will be in a North - South line

by **Swede** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 15]

RJ: I have had a situation similar to Brad's where a hill side several hundred yards across had stands about every 100-200 yards apart. It can work well and we have taken elk that way, but it is hard to keep every stand manned.
Also we have two water holes about 70 yards apart that cannot be covered by one stand due to a grove of trees between. We often set two stands there.

by **Washington Wapiti** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 16]

Phantom16 wrote: I'm pretty sure they all don't stop on their own for a photo OP as they move under the stand site

Actually RJ, the ones at my stand do.

: rosiecow.jpg (199.34 KiB) Viewed 16931 times

I've been working on my nervous grunt. I started using cameras in 2011 and I'm glad I did. See the big red alder behind her rising up out of her rump in this photo? That's where I set up my stand. 24 feet up that tree is about how high I can go before it starts angling all weird and getting crooked. It is exactly 18 yards from tree stand to where she is standing, and where I shot my bull. They funnel out into this spot from a trail which she has come down, which you can't see in the pic. The clearing she is standing in is an old overgrown spur with a trail that runs through it. It is a nice intersection and animals cruise through here in 4 major directions as well as some others that I wouldn't have expected. I'm not an "experienced treestand hunter" but the previous 4 years using my blind in the same area I sat all day most of the time. Sometimes I'd leave for an hour or two in the afternoon for a break, or I'd go still hunt if I got tired of sitting. I even slept in that thing for the entire week I hunted out there a couple seasons. Not sure that was the smartest thing to do in terms of scenting up the area?? Anyways, This spot always has sign all over the place . . . rubs, tracks, pellets . . . when I got the camera up and going it just confirmed what I already suspected from all the sign. That's what prompted me to set my blind here in the first place back then. Using the stand this year was an extension of that and alleviated the problems I was having with ground blind hunting there. I've been working this spot for 5 years based on sign, encounters with elk while scouting, etc. Because of that I knew it was a good area. It was just a matter of matching up the right hunting method with the area/behavior/movement. I guess that's my long-winded way of saying " I use cameras and signs of activity to help determine a good treestand location."

I have a couple other places I'm jonesin' to set up at. But I will put in cameras before I do. Also, like Swede, I access my stand from the same trails the elk use. There are only 2 ways in to this location. The overgrown spur trail, or the one the pictured cow just came down off of.

by **Washington Wapiti** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 17]

How often are you guys checkin' your wind? I mean is running through a bottle of windicator in a day weird?

by **Washington Wapiti** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 18]

cnelk wrote: We are seeing elk travel thru just out of range - 60+ yds.

This actually brings me to another question. What do you do if you discover this during your hunt? Will you tear down your set-up and move it to the better, closer location? I'm still not real adept at setting stands up. It takes me longer and I wouldn't say I'm exactly quiet about it either, though I try to be as quiet as possible. Is it worth possibly blowing the elk out of there to set-up closer to the action, or better to wait and see if they come within range?

by **Swede** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 19]

Washington the interval for checking the wind really varies. When it is warm and the diurnal winds are moving up, I rarely check. When the winds are shifting, or if there are down drafts or the diurnals winds are going down, I am checking a lot. Sometimes every few minutes. I try to minimize the problems with shifting winds by going high I the tree like you did on that Alder, but Jacuomo says that is not enough where he hunts. That is no reason to feel sorry for Jac. as he has killed more elk than we would know what to do with.
I have changed tree stand locations during the day, but not when the elk are present. I try to do it mid day when they are bedded. It is important to be as quiet as reasonably possible. I am far from perfect at this, but have had elk, deer and bear come by while I was still working away.

by **itsnlkthing** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 20]

Lock on vs climber pros and cons? I have a summit viper that I used in the Carolinas for deer. It's extremely comfortable and was great for rifle hunting but I've never used it since moving to CO.

by **Washington Wapiti** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 21]

Hahaha, okay I won't feel bad for him then.

I noticed on this year's hunt that the wind/thermal patterns I thought were so predictable in this area were NOT that predictable once I got in the stand. Or perhaps it was because of those unusual nasty storms blowing everything all around. I dunno. Actually, the part in your book about "down drafts" was something I had not even considered and paid extra attention to that during my hunt. I was puffing that windicator every 5 to 10 minutes. There were times where sure enough, that downdraft was taking the talc right to the ground soon as I squeezed.

That's good to know. I'm sure as I do more set-ups, I will get more proficient at it and less paranoid about spooking everything off if I need to change it up. Thanks for the feedback Swede!

by **Swede** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 22]

I prefer a comfortable hang on stand. I hunt the same places day after day. I may put up 5,6,or 7 stands over the coarse of a 35 day season including time for setup. When I get to a stand location while hunting, I hang my bow to a drop line, hook into the safety line and just climb up. I am not dragging a stand over to my tree and messing around.
If I was only going up a tree once or twice, then a climber would make sense. It normally takes me about an hour to prepare and setup a tree for a hang on stand. It probably takes 20 minutes to take one down and prep it for packing out. With a hang on stand, I can leave some limbs on the tree and continue on up on steel steps. Those limbs are good camo., but don't use them for steps unless they are big and you have other steps to support you.
Another important element with tree stands is comfort. You won't last long if every minute is uncomfortable. The Millennium M100 is the most comfortable stand I have ever had. It is also the easiest and safest to hang. I wish they would give me another for promoting their stuff, but the truth is I just say theirs is the best, because I believe it. I have had and used quite a few.

by **cnelk** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 23]

RJ

When it comes to checking the wind, I use the stuff below.
It lasts forever! And I check wind a lot.
A gentle squeeze and it wisps like smoke and travels quite ways.
I have only bought 2 bottles in the last 5 years

You can find it on eBay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOCCASIN-JOE-LO ... 0464611951

by **cnelk** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 24]

As far as tree stand comfort.
I dont spend a huge amount of time in my stands - prob only 3-4 hours a day.
So my stands arent the most comfortable.
I switch between sitting and standing and always use a harness

by **Willie makit** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 25]

I have a tree walker climber and a Millinum m150 I got this past season, the Millinium is very comfortable but the tree walker is much lighter and has all my stuff right there around me so I dont have to rely on limbs in the right place to hang stuff. The drawback is the tree has to be cleared of limbs, but I feel much safer going up in the tree walker rather than the many steps involved in the lock on.

Depending on my draw luck, if I end up going early season Im planning on some stand hunting and only want to bring one treestand.
From the looks of pictures a lock-on would overall be more user friendly to the types of trees in the elk woods, is that a correct guess?

by **Swede** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 26]

Willie, I get the feeling you are hanging real loose if you are insecure going up on steel tree steps. You should have a harness and be secured so you can never drop more than maybe a foot, from the time you leave the ground. You are correct that the Millennium is a little heavy. Large comfortable stands are that way. That is a trade off as you observed. I believe a big part of the decision about which tree stand to use is based on not just how many times in one season you plan to sit in a tree, but how many seasons you want to be there. I have a couple of home made ladders I am still using that are about 18 years old. I always think I should replace them, but each time I go and check they are still solid. With a 17 foot tall ladder made of native material and some 2x4 material, it is much easier to reuse a tree. Also I can relocate a ladder if I decide to, in a short amount of time.

by **itsnlkthing** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 27]

Swede, I know from your book that you build ladders on site to get you part of the way up. I can see doing that to get 10' or so, then I guess sticks for the rest of the way. The Millenium and sticks weigh in at over 30 pounds, which is more than 10 pounds more than my climber. I guess that's not bad if I'm base camping somewhere and don't go too far in. Do you dedicate the climbing sticks or use one set and move them between stands if you use more than one?

by **WapitiTalk1** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 28]

cnelk wrote:RJ

When it comes to checking the wind, I use the stuff below.
It lasts forever! And I check wind a lot.
A gentle squeeze and it wisps like smoke and travels quite ways.
I have only bought 2 bottles in the last 5 years

You can find it on eBay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOCCASIN-JOE-LO ... 0464611951

Powder puffers. Preposterous. Always just licked my index finger, put it in the air, or merely feel the wind on my face, head, neck. Had lil red order me two tonight. Going tree standing this fall and can't discount cnelk's logic. He's been pretty successful

by **Swede** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 29]

I own no climbing sticks. Never have had any. I use screw in steps. I set them in Douglas-fir and Ponderosa pine, so the little bit that penetrates the cambium layer is not a problem. My ladder is usually 17 feet tall. I have had some higher and some stubby ones. I estimate the diameter of each tree at 17 feet, and set the top rung to ensure the poles that extend slightly higher rest against the tree trunk securely. That way the ladder won't move. I also place a wire or rope around the tree and tie it to the top of the ladder. That wire or rope is just for added security. No doubt the ladder I use to climb a tree is safer than what I use to get up on my roof.
I have made ladders totally out of native materials and 16 penny galvanized nails. If weight is an issue then use the Wyoming saw you get from Elknut, and a hatchet that you can chop and pound nails with, and make the ladder in place. It should take you less than an hour longer than bring in 2x4 rungs.

by **Swede** » 02 13, 2014 • [Post 30]

: Here is a picture of one of my oldest ladders. It is secure at the top, but was not sized for the tree it is in now. Some 2x4 rungs were added later in its life.

by **itsnlkthing** » 02 14, 2014 • [Post 31]

That makes more sense..I forgot you mentioned screw in steps. Does anyone know if there are there any restrictions on those on National Forrest land or state land in CO?

by **cnelk** » 02 14, 2014 • [Post 32]

For CPW owned lands:

Prohibited Activities:
6. To build, erect, or establish any permanent structure or to plant any vegetation. Only
portable blinds or tree stands and steps may be erected by the public on state wildlife
areas. No nails may be driven into trees. All man-made materials used for blinds or tree
stands must be removed within 10 days after the end of the season in which they are
used.

Im sure the FS is the same

by **Willie makit** » 02 14, 2014 • [Post 33]

cnelk wrote:For CWP lands: . . . . . No nails may be driven into trees. ......

Im sure the FS is the same

Interesting, appears screw in steps are allowed, most public lands I've hunted prohibits anything "into" the trees.

by **Swede** » 02 14, 2014 • [Post 34]

My ladder is not a permanent structure, but it is man made. I have heard of no issues associated with it on F.S. lands. I see no difference between it and a meat pole that is left up after the season. What is illegal on F.S. lands is to lay claim to the site. In other words, if go to my stand and find someone in a ground blind nearby, I can't run them off because I had my stand there first. Different Regions and even Forests have different restrictions. Ultimately I could be told to take my ladder down and dismantle it. That would also be true for the meat pole.

by **stringunner** » 02 14, 2014 • [Post 35]

My dad and I use screw in steps as well. Based on Swede's recommendation in his book, we try and go a minimum of 25' up, but actually prefer to be around the 30' mark. Once we hang our stands, we leave many of the screw in steps in place while we are using the stand. We take out the bottom 8-10 for security reasons and then only have to pack in 8-10 steps each trip, sometimes we might hide the steps as well so we don't have to pack them in everytime. Taking out the bottom few steps makes it tough for folks to get in your stand and mess with your stuff, unless of course they are packing steps as well.

One down side to Swede's ladders (and this is no way intended to be a criticism, just an observation) is some are easy to spot as you are walking through the woods. There is one spot that my dad encountered two years ago, he was on his way to one of my stands that I had set up on a great transition zone, on his way in, he got turned around (he is not great at using his gps, yet, but we are working on it) and ended up missing the trail I was using. As he is walking along he notices a ladder standing next to a tree and walks over to have a look, what he finds is a great (on some years) water hole. This water hole is so secluded and small, that had he not seen the ladder he would have walked right by it.

As for the stands that we use, we also use loc on stands, not nearly as comfortable as the one's Swede buys but workable. It is not uncommon for us to sit 12-14 hours in the stands, (my dad is better at sitting this length of time than me) we purchased extra seat cushions which make it doable. In total we spend about $40 on the stands brand new from the sportsmansguide and an extra $20 on a seat cushion and we are in for a total of $60, now throw in a set of about 20 tree steps and we are into the whole set up at around $85. Between the two of us, we have 6 total set ups that we can use. I was skeptical of the stands we purchased at first as they were so cheap, but they are built good and with a little tweaking, black electrical tape here and there, we have managed to get all the squeaking out of them and they work well.

by **Swede** » 02 14, 2014 • [Post 36]

Willie: Some reasonable care must be exercised when messing with trees. It is illegal to damage trees. That has to be viewed in a reasonable manner. Does taking a pair of pruning shears and snipping off a branch so you can shoot at an elk constitute "damage" to the tree? Does cutting off some limbs so you can pitch your tent in a small opening constitute damage? The list is possibilities is endless. I do not like screw in steps in true firs because they are a source for infection to set in and also true firs are pitchy.

by **Swede** » 02 14, 2014 • [Post 37]

Stringunner: Your rear end is young. You can handle those cheap tree stands for a while yet.

If you buy a good M100 for your dad, I would venture to say it won't be long before those cheap stands are either spares or in the "classifieds" forums here. You are absolutely right that the ladder is very visible. Sit in one of my stands sometime when I am not there. You will be on the phone in a hurry calling 1 800 237 4444.

by **stringunner** » 02 14, 2014 • [Post 38]

Swede, that's my fear, to sit in one of your stands and find out that I NEED one. Of course it wouldn't stop at one, I would want a couple more and thus then exhaust my annual hunting "allowance!"

Eitherway, my cheap stands will remain in my garage for my son's. They can start with those like I had to, sort of like starting with their dad's old beater truck for their first rig! :lol:

My dad does probably deserve a nice stand, but then I would be worried about him falling asleep on stand!

by **Swede** » 02 14, 2014 • [Post 39]

Stringunner: I would not worry about your dad sleeping in his M100. He could miss seeing a bull, but he won't fall.

by **cnelk** » 02 14, 2014 • [Post 40]

I use the cheap stands and ladder sticks

I also mostly use 3 ladder sticks to get ~12 ft above the ground.

When I go set a stand in August, I strap the stand on my pack, and carry the sticks

by **ishy** » 02 14, 2014 • [Post 41]

I wouldn't want anything that comfortable. After 4 hrs on stand I'd be snoozin away. I can't verify it, but I've heard from a somewhat reliable source that I've slept through a bugle less than 100 yards away before. Side effect of having a snoring spouse.

by **Swede** » 02 14, 2014 • [Post 42]

Ishy: 4 hours? That is just getting warmed up. You have two more hours to go before you come down for a break. After lunch break you have another six hours to go before dark. I average 10 hours per day through a 30 day season on some years if I don't shoot an elk earlier.

by **WapitiTalk1** » 02 14, 2014 • [Post 43]

Ellk scent to make a passing bull give pause?...Jaquomo mentioned he has used this method. Any of you other experienced tree standers employ this tactic? I hunt very thick areas and if this method works, I may try it on at least one of my stand locations to perhaps slow bullwinke down for those precious few seconds in a tight window.

by **Washington Wapiti** » 02 15, 2014 • [Post 44]

You know, it's funny this came up. As I was sitting in my stand this last year I actually did bust out the bottle of Moccasin Joe and squeezed a bunch on to the ground a couple feet in front of my stand. I don't know of it works for a moment of pause because he didn't make it that far!

by **Swede** » 02 15, 2014 • [Post 45]

RJ, I have played around with scent. I think it could be useful in some situations, but I just have not had significant benefit from scent.