Convince me to change my broadhead or keep what I have

[Lefty]

Here we go,.. My buddy originally set up his( now my ) Mathews switchback bow (maybe and 07)and suggested which arrows and broadheads to shoot, I only shoot in my back yard and archery elk hunt. After loosing a quiver and a few arrows I had to rethink the cost of lost arrows
I was shooting at 42lbs 31 1/2 " inch 5575 Goldtips with 125 G5
Ive bumped up the bow to 64 lbs and those arrows fishtailed .
I got a good price on 75/95 and plan to shorten the shaft to 29 1/2" and leagthen my release, and shoot a 100 grain broadhead

I was thinking of changing broadheads, A neighbor thinks I need to stick with the G5 , my old target arrow set up flew true to thebroadhead set up
I was planning to make a change to something less expensive .
I need expireinced hunters thoughts

[Coveyleader]

Any decent BH will work. pick one that you have confidence in and the rest is up to you. oh those montecs will work fine too.

[FemoralArchery]

We have great success with regular Muzzy 3 blade 100 grains. They are pretty inexpensive, you can replace the blades and we've had no problems getting them to fly straight. I also like the practice blades, you can hunt with the exact head you practiced with.

One guy in our group was using Shuttle Tlocks, and he switched (downgraded, if you will) to the muzzys. I saw a muzzy completely pass through deer at 108 yards, they penetrate just fine, even at extended range.

As a dealer for multiple brands, I always come back to Ol' Reliable. For the price, you can't beat them, IMO.

[cnelk]

I'm not so sure it's the Broadhead making your arrows fishtail..

Has your bow been center tuned?

If there was no fishtailing at 42 lbs and now at 64lbs there is, I would do the following:

sure to tune your bow

Back off the draw lbs and see where the arrows don't fishtail anymore

Shoot thru paper

Then turn up the lbs again? A little at a time
*****

As far as Broadheads, Muzzy is a good head, SlickTricks are better ... IMO

[wideangle]

I prefer two bladed broadheads. For example, Magnus. They last forever and are easily resharpened.

[foxvalley]

I'm a big cut on contact fan.Magnus stinger 4 blade for me. I like how they sharpen the back of both the bleeder and the main blade,and fly awesome.A great way to find a good broadhead is to read the reviews,like at cabelas.

[Lefty]

I'm not so sure it's the Broadhead making your arrows fishtail..

Has your bow been center tuned?

When I fist saw the problem I had a shooting instructor check my method of release, and my bow,.. He assured me it was weak spine

If there was no fishtailing at 42 lbs and now at 64lbs there is, I would do the following:

sure to tune your bow

Check

Back off the draw lbs and see where the arrows don't fishtail anymore

right about 59 60

Shoot thru paper

Then turn up the lbs again? A little at a time
*****

As far as Broadheads, Muzzy is a good head, SlickTricks are better ... IMO

[>>>---WW---->]

Why don't you just take a couple of the arrows you already have and shorten them to 29 1/2 and see what happens. Shortening them, should in theory stiffen the spine of the arrow. I'd sure give that a try before I invested in more arrows. But definitely I don't think changing broadheads is the answer to your problem.

[Lefty]

Why don't you just take a couple of the arrows you already have and shorten them to 29 1/2 and see what happens. Shortening them, should in theory stiffen the spine of the arrow. I'd sure give that a try before I invested in more arrows. But definitely I don't think changing broadheads is the answer to your problem.

Some arrows seemed worse than others .
We did shorten some shafts to 29.5 and we couldnt see the fish-tailing, ; but suspect their is some we coulndt see.
With my release set longer I was able to use a shorter arrow (I was worried about getting cut by my broadhead)
I was shooting arrows with a =/- .003. I figure Im not that good of a shot and went to the =/- .006 heavier arrow ( on sale)
I only have two broadheads and 4 arrows left after the last day of the season I figure now was the time to make the switch.
Im trying to keep my weight down,.. I think with the new 29.5" shafts , nocks and 100 gn broadhead ,Im at 424 gn,
Where I had been shooting 31.5 "408.

Guess I need to relook at the arrow calculator that was up earlier last fall or summer too

[buglmin]

Wow oh Wow...if you have to use 29 1/2" 75/95 shafts out of a 64# switchback, you've got problems some where...and I'm willing to bet your torqueing that bow bad.
As far as the release, the trigger should be in the first joint of the finger, or a lil shorter.
Now, back to the bow...first question...when you align the bowstring in the middle of the riser, top and bottom, is the arrow perfectly inline with the string? Second question...are you using a string loop? Third question...what is the tiller measurement? With a release, both top and bottom limbs need to be set the same...fourth question...how are you gripping the bow? Are you sqeezing it hard? Is the pressure point in the web of the thumb? Are you heeling the bow? Fifth question...if your holding the bow tight, are you turning your hand any?
With your set up, a .500 spine shaft or a .400 spine shaft is what you should be able to use. A 75/95 is an extremely stiff shaft, especially at 29 1/2".
With that set up, a 100 grain Wasp Hammer or the 90 grain Muzzy would be perfect...

[Lefty]

Thanks buglmin

Wow oh Wow...if you have to use 29 1/2" 75/95 shafts out of a 64# switchback, you've got problems some where...and I'm willing to bet your torqueing that bow bad.

The problem was with the 5575

As far as the release, the trigger should be in the first joint of the finger, or a lil shorter.

I anchor as I was taught as a kid 40 years ago thumb knuckle under my jaw bone. I think now my trigger finger is the in the proper position

Now, back to the bow...first question...when you align the bowstring in the middle of the riser, top and bottom, is the arrow perfectly inline with the string?

Im not sure I understand 14.125 on the bottom to the center of the pulley 13.5" on the top including the thickness of the arrow I do have a trophy taker drop away rest, Does the whole rest be lower centering the distances?

question...are you using a string loop?

Yes

Third question...what is the tiller measurement? With a release, both top and bottom limbs need to be set the same..

I followed Mathhews instuction on Youtube, however the bottom appears to be 1/32+ longer

.fourth question...how are you gripping the bow? Are you sqeezing it hard? Is the pressure point in the web of the thumb? Are you heeling the bow?

My knuckles are closed between the webbing against and inline with the bone in my arm ,.. Im not squeezing but seem to have slightly more force against my webbing then the heel

Fifth question...if your holding the bow tight, are you turning your hand any?
With your set up, a .500 spine shaft or a .400 spine shaft is what you should be able to use. A 75/95 is an extremely stiff shaft, especially at 29 1/2".
With that set up, a 100 grain Wasp Hammer or the 90 grain Muzzy would be perfect...

[/quote]
Goldtip shaft sellection shows the arrow is on the border I am hoping to go up to 64 lb before season and the suggested shaft is the 7595
will a lighter such as a 90 grain be better?

Thank You Ill be looking forward to a reply
After spending some time I think I need to go to a bow shop and have someone who knows go thru my bow
Dennis

[>>>---WW---->]

Good idea Lefty. Find yourself a GOOD bow mechanic that can help you get things lined out right. Also, you might try going to www.bowtuningtips.com. The guy on there is Ken Parsons and he seems to really know his stuff.

Good luck! Hope you get them flying straight.

[buglmin]

Is the drop away rest dropping soon enough, or is it staying up too long? That might be the problem.
Your grip should be the centerline grip, with a red stripe down the center. The bow string should be right down the center of this line as you view the bow from the back.
I owned a pro shop and now work in a pro shopon the weekends. The 55/75, 29 1/2" should tune perfectly out of the 64# Switchback. A good quality pro shop will help you tune the bow. You've got a good setup, so dont let them talk you into buying other arrows or assories. With what you have, setting up the bow should be quick...Good luck