Stand Location Preparation Work

[WapitiTalk1]

OK, I've tentatively locked in a few potential tree stand locations in prime elk country. My initial plan is to hunt from a stand a handful of times during my stay in the elk woods in September. I'm primarily a run and gunner style archery elk hunter but I cannot overlook the effectiveness of a well placed tree stand any longer. I'll be swooping into my hunting area later this summer to drop a few trail cams and prep a few tree stand locations. Being a newb to tree stand hunting for elk, I pose this question.

What are the ABC's of site location preparation after I'm standing there with gear in hand (again, later this summer/prior to season starts) that may maximize my odds for success?

[Brendan]

I probably spent 30 different "sits" in a stand this year. Climbers, hang ons, and ladder stands. Shot 3 deer by bow, one with rifle. I suppose that's an advantage of spending a lot of time stand hunting. Note that this experience is for whitetail, but much will still apply:

If you're using a climber - beware of branches. THey are generally for straight, branchless trees until you get to your stand height. Hang on's with ladder steps or otherwise can help get around this.

I would do minimal, if any clearing for shooting lanes. Animals that walk through that area frequently will notice the difference if you cut too much.

The further before the season you can clear and set up stands the better, and then stay away until you use it...

Don't skyline yourself. Ideally you want branches / leaves / cover behind you. Leave cover in any area that isn't a shooting lane

Before hanging a stand - I like to wash it so it doesn't smell like people, oil, anything out of place in the woods.

Pine trees suck. You get covered with sap. If it's the only tree you might have to live with it.

Don't pick a dead or rotten tree, a tree with widow makers, or one too narrow that blows in the wind with every breeze.

Keep yourself tied in all the way up and all the way down. One slip and you could be done for otherwise.

Practice shooting from elevation at various distances. Bend at the waist and don't drop your arm. Point of Aim changes at steeper angles.

Envision the right point of aim from elevation based on where the arrow will exit. You'll aim higher on the near side of the animal and the arrow will exit lower on the off side.

When shooting from an elevated position, Quartering to and frontal shots are even riskier than normal. Stick to broadside and quartering away (Envision where the Shoulder blade is on a quartering to.....)

I bring a "Pee Bottle" to avoid scenting up the area, Make sure you "take care of business" before you get up in a harness in the tree stand... And don't eat spicy thai food before an all day sit in a stand. Trust me

[Swede]

RJ, there may be no single answer to your question, but let me offer this:
#1 Prepare the tree you will set your stand in first. In a perfect world you could see and shoot your elk anywhere around your stand and never be detected. Obviously that is not possible so we compromise. I prefer to place my stand where the elk will come in and pass by so I can get a broadside or quartering away shot. Shots well out front, and to the sides are great.
I like cover around me in the tree if possible. I may be up in or near the limbs, or there may be trees to my side or behind.
In short the tree I am in has cover, but I can still shoot in many directions. When you get in your stand, take a saw and trim out just enough to give you good shooting opportunities where you can expect to see elk. There is no one size fits all here. My son and I disagree on just what is best. I cut heavier than he likes. The saw always wins.
#2 After you set in your stand and trim up your tree, look out where you can anticipate elk showing up within shooting range. Determine what should go and get down from your stand. Cut enough material away so you can get plenty of good shots at different locations. Again this is a judgment call. I hate those single branches and single spindly trees the elk can stand behind and it covers their vitals. Limbs coming down a tree in front of you can be in the way. You will not figure this out until you are in your stand and look out. You may need to cut them with an on site made pole saw. One thing to consider here is how obvious to make the presence of your stand location to other hunters. I like hunters to pass by with no knowledge I am there. Where I hunt, hunters sometimes automatically look around when they find a water hole or wallow. If it looks like a logging operations was taking place, everyone passing will spot your stand.
Another tip is to mark distances out from your stand. I like natural material that the average Joe does not recognize as being significant. Also measure and remember trees or bushes are at certain distances, so you can shoot without using your rangefinder when an elk arrives.

Note: This is an edit. I just read Brendan's advise. It is excellent. I don't wash my stand to eliminate scent, but it doesn't hurt. I figure if they can smell the stand they can smell me. I also don't carry a pee bottle. Again Brendan's plan is good there too.

[ishy]

Bendan's stuff sounds great. I know of one bear that wished Swede carried a bottle. I've wondered about the pee thing since a buddy told me if I want a certain shot on whitetail during November to just take a leak where I want to shoot. If you want to try it just pick a little tree in the rut and water it and see what it looks like next time in the area and it usually gets torn up. Can't imagine elk would be much different. One big issue is keeping your scent down going to and from your trial spot. Might just be something to try on your way in or out without going out of your way...I'll let you know how it goes.

[WapitiTalk1]

Excellent information guys! Unfortunately, I don't believe I'll have much choice on the tree species (lotsa sappy pines where I hunt). Swede, you mentioned an "on site" made pole saw. Could you please elaborate how you set one up (type of saw used and how you attach it to a long pole).

[lamrith]

Excellent information guys! Unfortunately, I don't believe I'll have much choice on the tree species (lotsa sappy pines where I hunt). Swede, you mentioned an "on site" made pole saw. Could you please elaborate how you set one up (type of saw used and how you attach it to a long pole).

I am pretty sure I have a pole pruner you can borrow, it would be good up to about 2" limbs. It might of even had a saw on it at onepoint, I will check if it can take a blade as well.

[Brendan]

Excellent information guys! Unfortunately, I don't believe I'll have much choice on the tree species (lotsa sappy pines where I hunt). Swede, you mentioned an "on site" made pole saw. Could you please elaborate how you set one up (type of saw used and how you attach it to a long pole).

Hooyman and Wicked Tree Gear are two manufacturers of collapsible pole saws, I use a hooyman I've had forever. Or, you could get a folding hand saw, and use tightly lashed paracord to attach it to a stick / pole / limb that you find out in the woods while setting up your stand. I also have a "rope saw", I think the Harbor Freight version of this:

http://www.amazon.com/High-Limb-CS-48-R ... B0000AX849

A little bit of a pain to use, but can reach higher branches and is smaller / lightweight. It's basically a saw chain with rope on either end, you attach one end of the rope to a weight, throw it over the branch you want to cut, pull it into place and have at it.

[Swede]

RJ: All I was referring too was a small saw tied/lashed down to a dry pole, so you could reach up and cut off limbs that may block a shot to your water hole or other likely shooting area. I sometime take an axe or saw and just make a stump. Some stand locations are in dense vegetation so thinning out some trees or brush is not a problem.

[WapitiTalk1]

Good copy Swede, I figured that's what you were talking about. Was just curious perhaps how you attached a saw to an on site pole? I imagine a guy could use baling wire or even a good chunk of duct tape to do the trick.

[Swede]

Baling twine? That's what I use. Duct tape would be good. I have used light weight wire too.

[lamrith]

I have this, just needs a new saw blade. I can bring it for when we go scout/prep, or get to you if you make a trip I cant. That pruning head is over 6ft and it telescopes. Takes some strength, but hanging deadweight on rope works on up to around 2"..


EDIT: fixed image size

[stringunner]

Prep the spot as early as possible like others have said. We go in in pairs as often as possible and one person sets up the stand. Once up there, my dad uses a trimming pole (extends) and cuts shooting lanes from the ground. Last year I setup one by myself, as a spot swede calls Ross 2. It required me to use steps to climb 3 different trees and clear shootings lanes. Much easier when we go in pairs.
Two different trees last year I realized I was in the open during hunting season. Settin g trees where you have a back drop (limbs or other trees close behind) helps immensely.

I don't trust tree limbs as steps so I tend cut all branches as I go up. But the trade off is often less foliage around you. This year I will use two lineman climbing straps to ensure I stay connected and not have to cut as many limbs going up. This will allow for more cover in the trees I sit and ensure I stay connected as I go up.

[Swede]

Stringunner, you obviously used a different tree than I did or set at a different height. Hummmm?

[stringunner]

Yes Swede, at Ross 2 I sat in a different tree. Off to the west of the water hole. Unfortunately it was a ton of work and that was one of the spots I found myself far to in the open. If we hunt there again this coming year, we will need a different tree again.

That picture of the tree trimming pole is the same one we use as well.

[ishy]

If worse comes to worse and you need something to reach a difficult branch a +30' snag that's 3-6 inches thick dropped along a side of a tree will clean a side pretty quick on some trees.