super-tuning

[powderhogg01]

hey all... working on getting things tight and true for the upcoming season. I am working on getting the bow as tuned as i can possibly get it. shot bullets through some paper, then did 10-20-30 yard walk back.. then did a 20 30 40... i am hitting on the line through 40.. is it worth stepping back further?
with my arrows in line i decided to throw on some montec preseason heads, 125 matching the fieldpoints I was using.. the montec are all landing a ways to the right.. I was under the impression that a walk back tuned bow should put field points and BH in the same area so what gives... Right now I am grouping 6 inches around a milk jug cap at 50 with montecs. shooting a bear encounter at 29" pulling right at 60lbs.
i will say these arrows may not be perfectly spined, just some i had from perveious years.. I will be getting my hunting arrows this weekend hopefully...should I just wait until then to get super into the tuning here?

[Huntrgathr]

Time to broadhead tune ! I would wait until you have your hunting arrows. Check out this thread - you may need to be a member of AT to view the pics. There are a lot of YouTube videos on the topic out there as well...

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=539460

[jmez]

Your bow isn't really tuned until you have shot fixed blade broadheads or bare shafts. Broadheads fight the fletching for control of the arrow, FP's dont. The fletching will correct a lot of flight deficiencies shooting FP's. When you get a broadhead on then the fletching can no longer correct and minor tuning problems become magnified.

I would go ahead and tune the bow now with the BH's. You will be that much further ahead when you get your new arrows. What kind of bow is it? How far is "a ways" to the right and at what distance?

[powderhogg01]

it is a bear encounter, the FP hit about 6 inchs left of the broadheads at 50 yrd. I have some g5 montecs on and they are flying pretty good... I started hitting my bottle cap at 50 so I figure I am getting there.
Will I want to do this type of tuning every time i switch arrows?

[jmez]

6 inches at 50 yards isn't bad. That would be about an inch at 20 yards.

I would put one twist in the left yoke and take one twist out of the right yoke. That should put you about right on. Unless you spine is way out of wack, then no, you shouldn't have to do much retuning with new arrows.

[powderhogg01]

I would put one twist in the left yoke and take one twist out of the right yoke

your saying to physically add a spin to the cable line itself? for some reason I never thought of the cable or string causing some issues with accuracy... I feel good with my grouping, but really want to improve it this coming season. After missing on 2 of the biggest animals I have seen around here I was crushed... this year is for meat and redemption

[jmez]

Your bow has one cable and a string. The cable will come to a Y at the top. The legs of the Y that attach to the ends of the axle are called yokes, or yoke legs. By manipulating these you will change the orientation of the cam and clear up horizontal nock travel issues.

If your BH's are hitting to the right of your FP's then the arrow is leaving the string with the nock end to the left. As it travels downrange it causes the arrow to drift to the right. The drift is increased with the BH as the fletching can't straighten the arrow when the BH fights for control of the arrow. What you want is the arrow to leave the string completely straight. You can achieve this by moving the rest or by twisting the yokes. I prefer to set my center shot with a walk back tune and then use the yokes from that point on.

Broadhead right = nock left flight. For the nock to be to the left your top cam or wheel is going to be oriented like this, / (extreme example). That makes the string track off to the left which pulls the nock to the left, arrow impacts right. To correct this you need to twist the left yoke leg, this will shorten the yoke and thus pull down on the left side of the axle. Pulling down the left side will push the bottom of the cam back to the right. Taking a twist out of the right yoke will lengthen that side. Lengthening the right pulls less on the right side of the axle which allows the bottom of the cam to come to the right. These two actions will work to straighten the cam and push the nock back to the right and straighten out the arrow.

You need a bow press to do this. When you twist one yoke you should untwist the other an equal amount so everything else remains the same. Just working on one side will change your cam timing and synchronization as well. Based on the 6 inches at 50 yards I'm guessing the a twist in the left and a twist out of the right will be about right.

[powderhogg01]

jmez, thanks for walking me through. I have always shot bows and arrows, but only recently have I been bit by the bug to really push myself and my gear to see what my limits are. I have never held good groups past 50 yrds, this year I am doing so, so clearly the walk back tuning has helped.
I do not have a bow press, and sadly live a ways from any shop that does.. so this will likely have to wait until I go in to get the new arrows cut... I have been going to bass pro, since they will cut my arrows for free there, however I feel this last trip in before the season begins it may be worth my time to go into a real archery shop.
I know my string is old, and honestly I planned on replacing it before the hunt but things came up and now I do not think it will happen... that will have to be a winter thing. how much can an old string be holding me back? like when I replace it will I see and feel a big difference?

[powderhogg01]

ok, so I definately had an under spined arrow issue. While at the shop we pulled it on the tester and its pulling 71.5lbs. With that I wen ahead and got some carbon express piledriver hunters. Cut them to 29 and grabbed a set of 100 grain practice heads for the montecs.
So I came home, put the stop back in place and fired some arrows, they were off a ways from the others.. now I am finding my sight maxed out the furthest left it can go.. but with that said hitting the bulls eye.
so I move on to walk back, here are my results.
first shot at 20

[img][IMG]http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/ab298/powderhogg01/Mobile%20Uploads/3bc4f79b-5a0d-435e-b56f-a408d7686fe4_zpsmbrs3arv.jpg[/img][/img]
second shot at 30

[img][IMG]http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/ab298/powderhogg01/Mobile%20Uploads/8dcb5ae8-704a-41b5-ac9e-f1aea574a2d0_zpsto39aboj.jpg[/img][/img]

third shot at 40 yards



thinking things were all lined up I decided to toss some paper up and see what kind of hole i could create..

[img][IMG]http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/ab298/powderhogg01/Mobile%20Uploads/2a8ff93d-d630-489f-9d11-028f99124348_zpsnrl7xcyf.jpg[/img][/img]

and an unedited one

[img][IMG]http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/ab298/powderhogg01/Mobile%20Uploads/1f3b8eda-b1b0-4177-90c5-862bb24e1918_zpsypn8ny0f.jpg[/img][/img]
whats the deal here... any ideas for me on how to get things honed in.I have tried this several times with the same and different arrows, all the 350 are doing it, should i possibly try turning my bow down just a little? until I can get a solid bullet hole and a good walk back I figure no reason broadhead tuning yet.
not sure if the images are all working or not... so to summerize, walkback should arrows consistantly hitting the string.. paper tuning showed a tip entering right of tail. this was lessened by going from 125 to 100 but still a solid right to left tear

[8upbowhunter]

Idk if you adjusted your rest any yet but take a look at this video, he explains it very well. Sounds like you need to move your rest to the right some.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Dm_mBH9lhRw

[powderhogg01]

if I move the rest the walk back is off... right now its POI is dead on with the string out to 40 yards... im just seeing the arrow kicking hard right upon release, im also noticing the arrows ae having a slight angle when I go to pull them, something the other arrows did not have.
I have tried backing my bow down a few turns and it had not effect either way...

[archery bum]

I would try this if it was me.
I would put one twist in the left yoke and take one twist out of the right yoke. That should put you about right on. Unless you spine is way out of wack, then no, you shouldn't have to do much retuning with new arrows.[/quote]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QH1IiX6S7Z4
This guy has a lot of good info in his videos. good luck
Bum

[powderhogg01]

so I got some feed back on archerytalk, was suggested to start with a center shot of 11/16 and to shorten my draw. I decreased from 28.5 to 28 inches and moved the rest as best as I could tell to the 11/16 mark. before moving the rest I nocked an arrow and looked down the string to see how it lined up and as mentioned it was way out of wack.
I went back out and tried shooting but noticed a clearance issue I have never seen or noticed before. I turned the arrow so cock vane is out and that went away. I shot 4 more arrows a 100 field point, a 125 field point and 2 100 montec heads. all arrows grouped withing a few inches at 20 yards, I think im getting close now.
I went ahead and got sighted in at about 3 yards and shot the string, moved back to 20 yards and shot the string, 30 and 40 showed a very slight graduation to one side, but by that point I had shot a few and my arms could have been tired. I am going to go back out and give it a go. thanks for the help getting things dialed..